Svaneti

Introduction 

Embark on an extraordinary adventure to Svaneti, an enchanting region nestled in the northwest part of Georgia. With its majestic mountains, rich history, and captivating cultural experiences, Svaneti is a destination like no other.

Svaneti mountains

Prepare to be mesmerized as you explore the "Land of the Thousand Towers," a nickname that perfectly captures the awe-inspiring beauty of Svaneti. Picture yourself surrounded by towering peaks, each one more breathtaking than the last. Wander through medieval villages frozen in time, where ancient traditions and warm hospitality welcome you with open arms. 

Svaneti's charm extends beyond its natural landscapes. As a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it boasts a wealth of cultural treasures. Lose yourself in the narrow cobblestone streets, lined with centuries-old buildings adorned with intricate architectural details. Each village tells its own story, preserving the region's rich heritage and captivating visitors with its unique character.

Nature enthusiasts and adventure seekers will find paradise in Svaneti. The region offers a playground of outdoor activities, from invigorating hikes through pristine valleys to thrilling treks along rugged mountain trails. Every step you take unveils breathtaking vistas that will leave you in awe of Mother Nature's masterpiece.

But Svaneti isn't just about scenic beauty and adrenaline-fueled escapades.

Table of contents

• History of Svaneti
• When to visit Svaneti
• Things to do in Svaneti
• Getting Around and Transportation in Svaneti
• The Enchanting Svan Language 
•  Festivals and traditions in Svaneti
  
• Sights in Svaneti
• Svan Cuisine: A Gastronomic Adventure
• Skiing and Winter Activities in Svaneti 
• Svaneti's Churches and Religious Art 
• Discovering the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography 
• Essential Gear and Equipment 
• Safety Considerations for Svaneti Trekking 
• Practical Information: Money, Internet, and Medicine 
• Mountaineering in Svaneti: Conquering Majestic Peaks 
• Mountain Biking: Exploring Svaneti on Wheels 
• Horse Riding: An Adventurous Journey 
• Rafting: Conquering the Rapids 
• Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)  
  

History of Svaneti 

Svaneti boasts a captivating history that dates back thousands of years. This mountainous region has been inhabited since ancient times, and its isolation has contributed to the preservation of its distinctive culture and traditions. The region's watchtowers, known as "koshki," served as defensive structures against invasions. These iconic towers still stand today, symbolizing the strength and resilience of the Svan people.Today, they serve as a captivating glimpse into the region's past. Archaeological findings indicate human presence in the area as early as the Bronze Age. 

Svaneti towers

The history of Svaneti is closely intertwined with the rise and fall of various empires and kingdoms in the region. It has witnessed the rule of the Colchians, the Byzantine Empire, and the Kingdom of Georgia. Throughout the centuries, Svaneti has successfully defended itself against invasions and maintained its autonomy, thanks to its challenging geography and the bravery of its people. 

When to visit Svaneti

Svaneti is an enchanting land that boasts a history as captivating as the rugged mountains that define its landscape. Its roots reach back through the annals of time, stretching across millennia, where ancient civilizations left their indelible mark. Nestled in isolation, Svaneti's remote location has served as a guardian, safeguarding its distinctive culture and customs from the winds of change.

The iconic watchtowers, known as "koshki," stand tall as testament to the resilience and fortitude of the Svan people. Weathered by the passage of time, these ancient sentinels offer a window into the past, beckoning curious travelers to unravel the mysteries they hold. Stepping into their shadowy interiors, one can almost hear the echoes of history whispering tales of conquest and defiance.

Mestia

Archaeological wonders discovered amidst Svaneti's fertile soil have unveiled the footprints of humanity dating back to the shimmering days of the Bronze Age. Such findings paint a vivid portrait of a land long inhabited, where generations have flourished under the watchful gaze of snow-capped peaks. Through the rise and fall of empires, the heart of Svaneti has remained steadfast, beating to its own rhythm. 

The tapestry of Svaneti's history intertwines with the threads of countless dynasties and kingdoms that once held dominion over the region. From the ancient Colchians who walked these lands to the resplendent Byzantine Empire and the storied Kingdom of Georgia, Svaneti bore witness to the ebb and flow of power. Yet, amidst the tides of conquest, the Svan people clung fiercely to their autonomy, their unwavering spirit a testament to their unyielding determination.

Nature herself has stood as a formidable ally, fortifying Svaneti's defenses with her majestic grandeur. Towering mountains and treacherous terrain acted as a shield, repelling would-be invaders and preserving the region's sovereignty. But it was the valor of the Svan warriors, their bravery etched into the very fabric of the land, that ultimately secured their independence.

Today, Svaneti stands as a living testament to the triumph of heritage and the enduring legacy of a resilient people. Visitors who venture into this realm of wonders find themselves immersed in an ethereal realm where time seems to slow, allowing for a deeper connection to the past. Ancient ruins whisper secrets, mountain peaks stand tall in silent grandeur, and the vibrant tapestry of Svaneti's traditions weaves its spell, inviting all who wander to become part of its living story. 

In Svaneti, history and nature dance in harmonious unity, enchanting all who dare to explore its hidden depths. This land of timeless allure beckons adventurers, offering a glimpse into a bygone era and a chance to forge connections that transcend time itself. Step into the embrace of Svaneti and be swept away by the symphony of a land that whispers echoes of antiquity with every breath. 

Things to Do in Svaneti 

Svaneti offers an array of exciting activities for every visitor. Embark on thrilling hikes to the towering peaks of Mount Ushba or explore the captivating Enguri Gorge.Visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Ushguli and Chazhashi, a picturesque village located at an elevation of 2,200 metersand, where time seems to stand still amidst ancient architecture and stunning vistas. Hike to the Shkhara Glacier: Lace up your hiking boots and embark on an exhilarating journey to the Shkhara Glacier, the highest point in Georgia. The region boasts numerous hiking trails, ranging from gentle walks to challenging multi-day treks. The Mestia to Ushguli trek, with its stunning alpine scenery and panoramic views, is a popular choice among adventurers. Additionally, opportunities for mountain biking, horseback riding, paragliding, and skiing are available for thrill-seekers.Shkhara: The highest peak in Georgia, offering panoramic views of the surrounding mountain ranges. 

Ushba

Hatsvali and Tetnuldi Ski Resorts: Perfect for skiing and snowboarding enthusiasts. 

Enguri Dam: An impressive hydroelectric dam located on the Enguri River. 

Enguri

Getting Around in Svaneti 

To reach Svaneti, the most common entry point is through the town of Mestia. You can travel to Mestia by either road or air. There are daily flights from Natakhtari to Mestia, which offer a scenic journey. Alternatively, you can take a marshrutka (minibus) or hire a private car for a road trip from Zugdidi, Tbilisi or other major cities. 

Mestia

Within Svaneti, local transport options include shared taxis, which are a convenient and affordable way to travel between villages and trailheads. It's also possible to hire a guide with a 4x4 vehicle for more remote areas. 

The Svan Language 

Svaneti holds a captivating charm due to its remarkable feature—the Svan language. Spoken exclusively by the native Svan people, this ancient language stands as one of the oldest in Georgia and remains in use among the Svans to this day. Renowned for its exceptional phonetics and grammar, Svan is widely regarded as one of the most distinctive languages worldwide. Although the majority of locals can communicate in Georgian and English, acquainting yourself with a handful of fundamental Svan expressions can greatly enhance your interactions with the community while demonstrating your admiration for their culturally vibrant heritage.

Svan Festivals 

Svaneti is a land of festivals that celebrate the region's rich culture and traditions. Here are some notable festivals you should experience: 

• Kvirikeoba  
• Lamproba
• Chvilaoba Festival
  

Chvilaoba is a harvest festival that marks the end of the agricultural season. It involves traditional rituals, feasting, and folk dances. Visitors have the opportunity to partake in the festivities and witness the joyous celebrations. 

Svaneti Sights 

Mestia: The main town and gateway to Svaneti, known for its medieval towers and the Svaneti Museum. 

Village near Shkhara

Visit iconic Ushguli is a UNESCO World Heritage village, is a cluster of villages located at the foot of Mount Shkhara 5200m, the highest peak in Georgia. Explore the ancient stone towers, visit the medieval Lamaria Church.Discover Svaneti's Nature Embark on adventurous hikes,mountain biking or horseback riding expeditions to explore the stunning natural landscapes of Svaneti.Discover hidden waterfalls, traverse lush valleys, and witness the majesty of the Caucasus Mountains. 

Chalaadi Glacier: Embark on a thrilling hike to the Chalaadi Glacier, located near Mestia. The glacier offers a mesmerizing sight with its icy blue hues and frozen landscapes.Koruldi Lakes. 

Chalaadi

Svaneti Cuisine 

Svan cuisine is a delightful blend of traditional Georgian flavors with unique Svan twists. Here are some must-try dishes: 

Kubdari: A savory meat-filled pastry with spices and herbs. 

Tashmijabi: A hearty soup made with beans, meat, and spices. 

Chishdvari: A traditional Svan cheese served with cornbread.

Skiing and Winter activities in Svaneti 

During the winter months, Svaneti transforms into a winter wonderland, attracting ski enthusiasts from around the world. The ski resorts of Hatsvali and Tetnuldi offer excellent slopes and powder snow, catering to skiers of all levels. Apart from skiing, visitors can enjoy snowboarding, snowshoeing, and even heli-skiing for an adrenaline-fueled experience. 

Svaneti

Skiing Season (December - mid-April): The skiing season in Svaneti begins in the latter half of December and concludes in the first half of April. Within close proximity to Mestia, there are two skiing resorts, Hatsvali and Tetnuldi, which offer trails catering to various skill levels. Aside from skiing and snowshoeing, there are limited activities during this period. Nevertheless, Svaneti remains a splendid place to relax, especially with the picturesque villages covered in snow. 

Winter in Svaneti

Svaneti Churches and Religious Art 

Svaneti is renowned for its exquisite medieval churches and religious art. The Holy Trinity Church in Mestia, adorned with beautiful frescoes, is a prime example of Svaneti's religious heritage. The churches of Adishi, Lenjeri, and Ipari are also architectural gems worth exploring, showcasing intricate carvings and religious symbolism. The village of Latali is renowned for its sacral architecture and was once one of the wealthiest villages in Svaneti. At its peak, Latali boasted 60 churches, outnumbering residential buildings. Today, only 25 churches remain, serving primarily as family shrines. The main church in Latali is Matskhvari (Saviour's Church), which houses preserved 12th-century paintings by Miqael Maghlakelidze. Nearby, you'll also find the only church in Georgia dedicated to Prophet Jonas. 

Another cluster of fascinating churches can be found along a short stretch of the Enguri River, in villages such as Kala, Iprari, and Nakipari. These churches feature some of the finest frescoes in Svaneti, painted over a 40-year period by Theodore, the court painter of King David. It's worth noting that the frescoes are not in the best condition, as they have not undergone restoration until recently when the Georgian government initiated restoration efforts. 

Svaneti Museum 

For history enthusiasts, a visit to the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography is a must. Located in Mestia, this museum houses a remarkable collection of archaeological finds, religious artifacts, and traditional Svan household items. The exhibits provide a comprehensive insight into Svaneti's past and its unique cultural heritage.

Essential Gear and Equipment 

When embarking on a Svaneti trekking adventure, it's crucial to pack the right gear and equipment. Here are some essentials: 

• Sturdy hiking boots with good ankle support
• Lightweight and breathable clothing suitable for layering
• Waterproof and windproof outer shell
•  Backpack with a comfortable carrying system
  
• Sleeping bag and camping gear if planning overnight treks 
  
• First aid kit and personal medications 
  
• Map, compass, and GPS device for navigation 
  
• Snacks, water, and a reusable water bottle 
  
• Sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat for sun protection 
  

Safety Considerations for Svaneti Trekking. 

Mountains

Safety should always be a top priority when trekking in Svaneti.  Here are some important considerations: 

• Acclimate to the altitude gradually to avoid altitude sickness.
•  Inform someone about your trekking plans and expected return time.
• Stay hydrated and drink plenty of water throughout the trek. 
  
• Follow the marked trails and avoid venturing into unknown or dangerous areas. 
  
• Be mindful of weather conditions and adjust your plans accordingly. 
  
• Travel with a reliable guide or join organized trekking groups for added safety. 

Practical information: Money, Internet, and Medicine. 

Mountains in Svaneti

When in Svaneti, it is advisable not to rely solely on your bank card and instead carry cash for all transactions. While some restaurants accept cards, the majority of guesthouses and shops prefer cash payments. 

If you find yourself short on Georgian currency (GEL) while in Svaneti, you can obtain it in Mestia. There are two ATMs and several currency exchange offices available. However, when venturing into smaller villages, it is crucial to have enough cash. In exceptional cases, locals may accept Euros or Dollars, but at unfavorable exchange rates. 

Internet Connection: Surprisingly, Svaneti boasts excellent internet coverage. The signal is strong not only in tourist hotspots but also on mountain ridges and other elevated areas. For internet access, you will require either Wi-Fi or a prepaid SIM card. I strongly recommend the latter, as free Wi-Fi networks provided by guesthouses are often overloaded with other tourists, resulting in unreliable connectivity. 

To acquire a SIM card, you can purchase one upon arrival at the airports. Georgia has three major phone operators: Magti, Geocell, and Beeline. Each offers tourist packages that usually include calls and approximately 3GB of mobile data. Magti is my preferred choice due to its superior coverage, especially in mountainous regions. If you decide to purchase a SIM card in Mestia, Beeline is the only operator with a booth located at Seti Square. 

Although 3GB of data is substantial, it can be depleted—especially if you have friends who didn't purchase their own SIM cards and constantly ask for Wi-Fi hotspots. Fortunately, you have the option to purchase additional data. Several stores in Mestia have orange or blue payboxes allowing you to top up your credit. Dialing "11**" will grant access to a menu where you can allocate the added credit (note that the menu is in Georgian, so you may need assistance from friends or your guesthouse host). 

Medical Facilities: Mestia houses a small yet modern hospital situated in the western part of the city. 

The city also has two pharmacies: Pharmadepot, a larger pharmacy located in the hospital building, and Seti Pharma, situated in the city center near the Police station.  

 One of the major advantages of trekking in Svaneti is the dense distribution of villages, allowing for "guesthouse trekking."  This means you can spend up to 8-10 days on the trail without having to camp. Of course, there are also more remote treks that do require camping equipment. 

For a comprehensive list of treks, refer to the separate tab dedicated to this topic. 

Mountaineering in Svaneti: Conquering Majestic Peaks. 

Peaks in Svaneti

For experienced mountaineers, Svaneti offers a thrilling opportunity to scale its majestic peaks. Mount Ushba, with its challenging routes, is a popular choice among climbers. Engaging in mountaineering activities requires advanced skills, proper equipment, and knowledge of the terrain. It's recommended to join guided expeditions or hire experienced local guides to ensure safety and make the most of your adventure 

Mountain Biking 

Bike tours in Svaneti

Svaneti offers ample opportunities for mountain biking. While the Zugdidi-Mestia road is heavily trafficked and not the safest route for cyclists, the region features many dirt roads with favorable terrain and minimal traffic. Some hiking trails can also be tackled on a bike, although not all trails are suitable for biking. Numerous bikers have learned this the hard way. One of the most popular biking routes begins in Mestia, heads east to Ushguli, crosses Zagar Pass into Lower Svaneti, and then turns west toward Lentekhi. 

Horse Riding

Horse riding in Svaneti

Svaneti. Although it may not be as popular as one might expect, there are opportunities available. The most profitable horse is the one that transports tourists across the Adischala River on the Mestia-Ushguli trail. Nevertheless, several villages serve as excellent bases for horseback trips. Mazeri village is an ideal starting point for excursions to the Shdughra waterfall , while Ushguli is a suitable base for horse trips to the Shkhara glacier or the Zagar Pass. 

Rafting

Rafting: Given its wild rivers and stunning setting, it's no surprise that Svaneti is also a prime destination for rafting.. Presently, the rivers of Svaneti are primarily explored by Georgian and Eastern European rafting clubs. The most popular rivers for rafting are Nenskra and Enguri in Upper Svaneti. These rivers offer varying levels of difficulty, starting at class III-IV, making them suitable for experienced rafters. If you've ever stood on the Mestia bridge and peered down into the Mulkhura Gorge, you'll understand why these rivers are so enticing. 

FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

A waterfall in Svaneti

• Q1: Is Svaneti suitable for families with children? A1: Yes, Svaneti offers a range of family-friendly activities, including easy hikes, horseback riding, and cultural experiences that cater to all age groups.
• Q2: Are there any accommodation options available in the remote villages of Svaneti? A3: While accommodations in remote villages may be limited, guesthouses and homestays provide a unique opportunity to experience the local hospitality and immerse yourself in the authentic Svan lifestyle.
•  Q3: Can I hire a local guide for hiking and trekking in Svaneti? A4: Absolutely! Hiring a local guide is highly recommended for hiking and trekking adventures in Svaneti. They possess extensive knowledge of the region, ensuring your safety and providing valuable insights.
  
• Q4: Is it safe to visit Svaneti? A: Yes, Svaneti is generally considered safe for travelers. However, it's always advisable to take necessary precautions and be aware of your surroundings, especially when engaging in outdoor activities.
•  Q5: Are there any medical facilities in Svaneti? A: While Svaneti does have medical facilities in major towns, it's recommended to carry any necessary medications and travel insurance that covers medical emergencies.
  
• Q6: Can I visit Svaneti without a guide? A: It is possible to explore Svaneti without a guide, especially if you're an experienced traveler. However, having a local guide can enhance your experience by providing insights into the region's history, culture, and lesser-known spots.
•  Q7: What is the currency used in Svaneti? A: The official currency of Georgia is the Georgian Lari (GEL). It is widely accepted in Svaneti, but it's always a good idea to carry some cash as well.
  
• Q8: Can I communicate in English in Svaneti? A: While English is not widely spoken in Svaneti, you can still manage with basic English in major tourist areas. Learning a few basic phrases in Georgian will greatly enhance your interactions with the locals.
•  Q9: How do I reach Svaneti? A: Svaneti can be reached by air via the nearby Queen Tamar Airport in Mestia or by road from major cities like Tbilisi-Natakhtari or Kutaisi.
  
• Q10: Are there any hiking trails suitable for beginners in Svaneti? A: Yes, Svaneti offers a range of hiking trails suitable for beginners, such as the trek to the Koruldi Lakes or the Chalaadi Glacier.
•  Q11: Can I visit Svaneti in winter? A: Yes, winter transforms Svaneti into a magical winter wonderland, and the Tetnuldi SkiResort offers excellent skiing opportunities for winter sports enthusiasts.
  
• Q12: Is trekking in Svaneti suitable for beginners? A1: While Svaneti offers treks for different skill levels, some routes may be more challenging for beginners. It's advisable to start with shorter day treks and gradually build up your stamina and experience before attempting longer or more difficult routes. 
  
• Q13: Are there any age restrictions for trekking in Svaneti? A2: There are no strict age restrictions for trekking in Svaneti. However, it's important to assess your physical fitness and consult with a healthcare professional if you have any pre-existing medical conditions.
•  Q14: Can I camp during my trek in Svaneti? A4: Yes, camping is allowed in designated areas along the trekking routes in Svaneti. Make sure to follow Leave No Trace principles and respect the environment.
  

Conclusion 

Svaneti is a captivating destination that blends history, natural beauty, and cultural richness. From exploring ancient watchtowers and UNESCO World Heritage Sites to indulging in thrilling outdoor activities and savoring the local cuisine, Svaneti has something for every traveler. Plan your visit to Svaneti and embark on a journey that will leave you with unforgettable memories and a deep appreciation for this remarkable region. Svaneti is a mesmerizing destination that offers a unique blend of natural beauty, cultural heritage, and thrilling adventures. Whether you seek tranquility amidst breathtaking landscapes or a taste of Georgia's rich history and traditions, Svaneti is sure to leave an indelible mark on your heart. Embark on this unforgettable journey and discover the enchanting allure of Svaneti, a true gem in Georgia's mountainous crown.